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Truffles… Champagne… The mere mention of these two "stars" of the table conjures up images of celebration and the pleasures of the flesh, moments of unforgettable luxurious indulgence. But what in reality are the qualities that link this captivating little nugget torn from the soil and a wine that is the symbol of lightness itself?
Winning combinations of Champagne wines and truffles…
Black truffles (Tuber melanosporum) : choose rich powerful, vinous Champagnes with definite structure, perhaps even an astringent or tannic quality and an energetic personality. Either young Blancs de noirs (based on Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier) or Champagnes blended mainly from more 'mature' varieties of black grapes, preferably vintage or even, aged in the intimacy of the wood. Foods with crisp and warm 'oily', strong textures (butter, cream, milk, flour) go beautifully with these Champagnes.
Summer and Burgundy truffles (Tuber aestivum and Tuber uncinatum): these go well with refined, tender, suave Champagnes with a smooth and rounded texture. Choose young or more "mature" Blancs de noirs based on Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier, ones that have been set aside for shorter periods than those you would combine with black truffles. Maturation on lees brings out the 'mellow' oily texture of the wine. Champagnes aged in the wood strike the right chords as their wooded notes develop into smooth, creamy substance on the palate. These wines go beautifully with recipes based on pasta, sauces, cream and butter. The harmony reaches its apogee with those sweet tasting, creamy desserts, fragrant with vanilla, that go so well with truffles.
White truffles (Tuber magnatum): prefer vintage Blanc de blanc Champagnes or those predominantly based on Chardonnay that achieve a subtle balance of substance and freshness. Long periods of ageing on lees endow them with an extra sensory dimension, complexity and an even more unique taste. Foods that have a certain smoothness and depth of aroma also combine to fabulous effect with the freshness and delicate vinosity of vintage rosé Champagnes that are predominantly based on Chardonnay grapes.
Two recipes suggested by Chefs to prolong this Epicurean encounter…
Little pasta shells with sugar and Burgundy truffles by Christophe Dufossé
60 g butter, 80 g caster sugar, 200 g coquillettes (little pasta shells), 30 cl single cream,
1 Burgundy truffle per person (approx. 30 to 40g). Serves 5.
Cook the coquillettes in boiling water until they reach the 'al dente' stage. Strain and set aside. Reduce the cream by half, slice the truffles and shred into julienne strips. When you are ready to serve, pan fry the coquillettes in the butter and sugar, add the reduced cream and shredded truffles.
Little potato turnovers with black truffles by Guy Savoy
120 g whole truffles, 1.2 kg potatoes, 120 g leeks, 1 small onion, 250 g butter, salt, freshly ground pepper. Serves 6.
Peel the potatoes, leeks and onions and rinse carefully. Using a vegetable slicer, cut the potatoes into 3mm thick slices. Rinse once again to remove the starch and leave in water. Clarify 150g butter in a high-sided frying pan over a low heat. Cut onions and leeks into very thin strips and sweat with 30g butter over a low heat until thoroughly cooked.
Strain the potatoes and pat dry. Turn into a mixing bowl, add 3/4 of the clarified butter and mix well. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Arrange the slices of potato around a buttered baking tray so that they overlap. Oven bake for about 15 minutes at 175ºC (325ºF).
Cut the truffle into thin slices. When the potato slices are cooked, turn them out onto a board allowing six per person. Place a little of the onion-leek mixture in the centre of each one, top with a slice of truffle and finally cover with a second slice of potato. Use a pastry-cutter to shape the turnovers, arrange them around a buttered dish, brush with clarified butter and brown in a salamander or very hot oven. When golden, arrange on individual plates and serve.