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Two key principles:
• Fish with strongly iodised flavours that taste pungently of the sea call for straightforward methods of preparation. Serve them raw, pan- fried, grilled, oven-roasted or steamed, drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with a slice of lemon, fresh herbs or dressed with a thin, delicate sauce. With these natural- tasting fish, it is best to serve fresh, light Champagnes. Buttery, creamy or more highly seasoned fish may be served with rounder, softer Champagnes
• As for fish with milder flavours, such as freshwater fish and some shellfish that are usually served in elaborate sauces to enhance or sharpen the flavour, these combine beautifully with opulent Champagnes of a more robust character that linger on the palate.
Sauces that go well with Champagnes
The accent here is on simplicity and lightness but some recipes call for more complex sauces to bring out the authentic taste of the fish. Bear the following points in mind when choosing a Champagne to match the sauce:
• Creamy and buttery sauces: served with many Atlantic fish, often seasoned with fresh herbs, capers or a hint of lemon. Serve with quite powerful, rounded, fleshy Champagnes. Champagnes of the body.
• Oily sauces: olive oil, on its own or marinated with herbs (basil, tarragon, chives, thyme, dill and others). Serve with fresh, lively Champagnes, packed with fruit. Champagnes of the spirit.
• Sauces based on poultry or veal stock : drizzled onto fish which have pronounced flavours to emphasise or temper the taste, often with mushrooms to enhance the balance.
Serve with quite powerful, rounded, fleshy Champagnes. Champagnes of the body.
• Mayonnaise: (made with groundnut oil or olive oil), plain or lightly seasoned with herbs or spices (curry, saffron) but never with garlic. Serve with fresh, lively Champagnes packed with fruit. Champagnes of the spirit.
When not to serve Champagne
Fish has no affinity with the higher dosage champagnes, such as demi- Sec or sweet Champagnes, although these may suit some varieties of shellfish.
Champagnes should not be served with excessively strong-tasting fish - sardines, particularly if they are marinated or grilled, herrings, anchovies, rollmops. They give the wine an astringent, bitter quality.
Champagnes are also unsuitable if the fish has been prepared in certain ways: for example, raw fish marinated in vinegar, smoked, or prepared with lime,garlic or tomatoes.
Some traditional recipes are too liquid in consistency or too strong tasting to go well with Champagnes (for example, bouillabaisse, cotriade* or seafood sauerkraut).
* fish stew with potatoes and onions cooked in butter or lard (Brittany)