Champagnes and winter puddings

Christmas and New Year's Eve, Twelfth Night, Candlemas -Winter is a time of indulgence, a time of festive fare and traditional culinary delights, intimate family reunions and evenings with friends round the dinner table. It is a time for staying snug by the fireside and enjoying the gorgeous desserts that go with the season.

There are as many recipes as there are ingredients. The cornucopia of fruit ranges from crisp white apples and melt-in-the-mouth pears to more exotic fruit such as citrus, pineapple, bananas and coconut. There are crystallised fruits and nuts in abundance (walnuts, almonds, pistachios, pine nuts) and sugar with which to confection your heart's desire: sugar cane, sugar syrup, icing, granulated and caster sugar whisked into frostings and soufflés, crystallised or liquefied into golden caramel. There are wonderful combinations based on honey, praline, liquorice, spices and chocolate.

When it comes to desserts, the list of possibilities is endless - and perfectly in tune with the fabulous range of Champagnes.
Choose your type of Champagne and create new harmonies of flavours, tastes and textures to suit.
Conjure up magical moments and atmospheres, bathed in the rosy hue of intensely aromatic desserts with moist, creamy textures and crisp, crunchy toppings. Choose fleshy, powerful, robust Champagnes, of the kind that are long in the palate and a sure remedy for Winter blues …

Be discerning when deciding which Champagne to serve with your winter dessert. The choice is a very delicate one because of the rich flavours and complex textures involved.

Winter desserts may be divided into three categories:

1. Tarts and other puddings such as crumbles (apple, rhubarb, quince, pineapple, plums and pears) that combine the fresh, fleshiness of fruit with the moist, biscuity or crispy texture of sweet flan pastry, shortcrust and flaky pastry.

These desserts go best with fleshy, round Champagnes that with a few years' ageing will bring forth the character of the grape varieties and terroirs from which they originate. Choose vintage or already quite mature Blancs de Noirs Champagnes and wines made predominantly from black grape varieties, Pinot Noir and/or Meunier. Serve Champagnes of the Body and Heart and sometimes, Champagnes of the Soul.

2. Creamy, moist, melt-in-the-mouth cakes, such as plum pudding, rice pudding, Paris-Brest, Saint-Honoré, pancakes, choux à la crème, macaroons, madeleines, financiers and mille feuilles.

These sumptuous desserts strike a fabulous chord with smooth, long Champagnes that combine structure or a measure of creaminess with soft warm aromas: Brut, dry or medium dry Champagnes created from an assemblage of three grape varieties grown in a single terroir or several crus. Alternatively, choose mellow, robust rosé Champagnes vinified by maceration on skins and packed with fruit. In either case, prefer Champagnes of the Heart and sometimes Champagnes of the Soul.

3. Dry cakes such as biscuits and cookies, almond cakes, rock cakes and shortbread.

These desserts have a dense texture that calls for the 'refreshing' qualities of light and lively Champagnes and Blanc de Blancs Champagnes created principally from Chardonnay grapes, preferably vintage or aged more that five years on lees. Choose rosé Champagnes for their caressing textures and delicate flavours that go beautifully with dried fruits and concentrated textures. Serve Champagnes of the Spirit and Champagnes with Heart.

Comments

When serving Champagnes and winter desserts, be careful to avoid the following:

- Frozen desserts or those that are excessively runny or liquid in texture
(zabaglione, œufs à la neige, floating island pudding, flans, crème brulée, mousses, ice creams, sorbets, bombes, Mystères…)

- Desserts that are over sweet (honey, jam, marzipan) or tasting strongly of citrus, chocolate (white or black), coffee or mocha.

- Desserts with an excessively greasy or buttery texture such as fritters, white chocolate logs (butter cream and icing…)

Champagnes go best with desserts that bring out the natural flavours of their ingredients.